Trip to Andaman-Day 1

10:36 AM


It was 22nd August. The day I had been waiting for so long. I was thrilled and excited and our bags were packed and ready to go days ago.

Booking a call taxi, the guy, showed off his collection of teen songs that varied linguistically as well as beat-ically. The airport grew as we came closer; the new Kamaraj domestic terminal towered above our heads like a huge umbrella filled with many shiny new metal spikes. After a small shuffling of documents we entered the dome greeted by Naval Singh, the officer by the gate. Dad woke us up really early fearing a crowded airport, but voila, every person seemed to move toward counters other than ours. And poof, we were done and had an hour and half long wait at the airport. Shortly near gate no 5, a smart bus arrived that picked us up and moved all the way to the airplane. There was another crazy bunch of tourists that rode with us, clicking away pictures at the slightest hint of anything different. Arming my brother with canon Powershot a330, I urged him to click away and he started right off.

After the eventual boarding, takeoff and flight, I had to wait 2 hours before any signs of land could appear below. After what seemed liked ages, a stretch of land was spotted. My vacation has started and thus begins my imagery.

The clouds slowly parted and engulfed the funnily small windows near the seats. It hid the magic behind it like a shy girl all covered up. Then patches of green appeared as if god threw them carelessly on the ground. It was perfect. You could start about guessing what shape came next as the chunks of earth grew into different shapes. My neck ached from turning left and right. There were unbelievably brilliant pieces of land strung together like a bead necklace gone awry. There was also earth snaking its way through the sea and reaching out to grab another piece of earth or sometimes sink into the hungry ocean.

Breathtaking and awe-giving, the scenery was something I had never seen before. There were also islands that showed a faint border around it depicting the likes of an atoll or coral reef. Imagine, lush dark green forming a thick canopy right at the centre before seething sheepishly on all sides into the sea forming a pale green texture on the sea bed. Only the whiteness of the sand that lay between the two greens tells you the island ends there and the great sea begins. And looking deeper you can see the massive land underneath which was greater than what is being proudly displayed atop.

In spite of the jealous sky trying to turn our attention to the plush and thick ice-cream white snow, the land and sea seemed to be showing it the middle finger. Only an aerial view can let you estimate the various shades of green God can dazzle you with making you sink in humility.

As the plane neared the ground tearing our eyes from the brilliant green show, a huge display of coconut trees loomed into sight and as we got closer to the ground, it struck me that I was still in India. The stray garbage and dirt can be discernible at any altitude only over Indian soil and it never failed to prove me wrong.

And I was like, Oh Australia, come on.

Touching down we entered what looked like a hut in comparison to the other airports I had been. The air was fresh and foreheads were thick of vermillion indicating a finger in the state from where the sea borrowed its name. Bengal.

Yes it was populated by Bengalis, with Hindi being commonly spoken and English being the official language.

First Impression: Awesome I’d say. I had a feeling I was entering a sparsely populated, more pristine piece of earth.

And it felt like a lord when I found out we had someone waiting for us with our names on a board. Ha! I never had that done to me before.

And our ride was not bad too. A shiny new scorpio, it was rich and had a perfect sense of calling. And what’s more they hand us a basket full of maa’s and lay’s. Ha! Not bad at all. Food....

After a short drive up a road that resembled ones in munnar or kodai, we came up a 3 star hotel TSG emerald view. It was stylish and the bell boy seemed sturdy on carrying our luggage himself.

Yes yes it was quite a welcome, Nature and Tour Agency wise.

The guide gave us a briefing of what to expect in the day and asked us to be good to go by 3. And we were. I am thankful my dad is around. Cause I don’t remember being on time with any other group I have been out with. Let’s blame the women shall we.

The guide said he knew Tamil. I dint know he knew it the way I knew Hindi. So it was all fun, questions fired up with wrong answers shooting back or us making futile attempts to convey the same in Hindi and being dazed some more.

Our destination was Chidiyatapu, a beach 35 km from our hotel. We packed up our stuff to go, handy with a digicam and handy cam and also loads of expectations. And oh my god the ride, it got my head spinning for the next hour. Sharp turns, climbing up and down hills, it was terrible I tell you. We reached finally what seemed to be a deserted stretch of pure white sand with couple of uprooted trees and demolished walls. The place had huge boards warning you of crocodiles. Why was the place open I wonder? The trees were magnificent; sometimes two of them had their roots across each other holding for dear life. We climbed a trunk as far as our untrained limbs and bellies could carry. The sand was clear and the water was shallow up to a few metres. The beach was surrounded by hills covered with green all around. Small huts were built, tree logs were cut to make benches. We had an hour to kill before the next stop, so we sat around taking as many pictures as we could, videos and what not. There was one tadpole like creature which we fathomed it be a crocodile spawn or something. The place resembled the island you might notice in the HCL ad where two guys are marooned on an island. It was different from the usual sundal, popcorn vendors, hawkers, tamed horses and the imperative hustle bustle of marina.

After spending a while we started off to Cellular jail which was the place Siraichaalai was shot. As we reached early, we had to wait at the Rajiv Gandhi water sports complex which had Jet Ski and other stuff. I so want to be back there again.

There was also a small park opposite the cellular jail commemorating the people who suffered torture in the jail. It was then I understood why the Port Blair airport was named Veer Savarkar Airport. Quite a gesture.

The cellular jail was being preserved in its original state with few restorations done and safeguarded by the department of art and culture. It was now a national memorial. Revolutionaries who took part in several conspiracies and bombings, or spoke against the British Rule violently, like Alipore, Chittagong, Lahore and many others spent their last days here.

The jail was one place that really took me way back in Indian history, creating a vivid description of what might have taken place. The light and sound show really brought life the rich Indian history forgotten and ignored by us. The story talked about how Andaman was made a penal island, how the jail was built, (note, Indians ourselves gave birth to its monster.) one point that caught my attention was the unwavering quality of Indian promises made. 3 years was the proposed plan. It took almost 10 year to complete it rather. But imagine the entire cost was only 5, 71,000 Indian rupees.

The prisoners from neighbouring jails participated in building this slaughterhouse. Brick by brick, 10 years went away. A neat little ghetto was built. Each cell was symmetrical in size and about 4 out of 7 of them had oil presses. I had no idea how hard it was to extract oil from coconuts when there was an example cited. It seems it takes two cows to extract 16 pounds of oil in one day. Jailer David Barrie was instrumental in perpetuating torture. The prisoners, 3 in number were made to extract 80 pounds a day. They were thrashed, beaten if they failed. One guy, Ullasam lost his mind owing to the torture. He was still tortured. The prisoners were flogged, made to work oil presses and so on. Food was worse. There was stones and dirt in the porridge and a vicious circle of jailers roamed around to steal their scanty rations. Another Mahabir Singh, Bhagat Singh’s aide was forced fed milk to break his protest fast. The food drowned his lungs and killed him. This was the singular event that sent waves of shock across the nation bringing the toils of the prisoners to check.

After a few years of normalcy the Japanese conquest came by shedding bloodshed. Though their reign stayed for only 3 years, they killed thousands of Indian farmers and workers on the pretext of being spies.

A tree stood on one corner telling the story. It chanced to escape felling while the area was being cleared to build the seven spokes of jail. only three stand today. On another corner, a voice appeared claiming to be the spirit of the prisoners. Both the tree and spirit gave an almost live tale of what time had gulped here. Gripped by eerie recounts of Indian struggle, we started back to our room for an early end to our Day 1.

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